San Juan Bautista Church (Tabaco Church)

Overview

San Juan Bautista Church, prominently located in Tabaco City, Albay, stands as a monumental beacon of faith, history, and architectural marvel in the Bicol region. This church, known for its stately and robust structure, was meticulously built from 1864 to 1879, reflecting a period of resilience and profound faith among the local populace. Its construction using volcanic stone blocks, combined with a unique adhesive of lime, honey, and egg, not only showcases the ingenuity of its builders but also the distinct marks of the Masons, setting it apart from other Philippine churches. As a celebrated National Cultural Treasure, the church embodies the rich cultural heritage and enduring spirit of Tabaco City, making it a focal point of religious devotion and historical interest.

Important Update: San Juan Bautista Church sustained significant damage due to Super Typhoon Rolly (Goni) in late 2020. Currently, extensive rebuilding and renovation efforts are underway to restore many parts of the church to their former glory. Visitors may encounter construction activities during their visit as the community works diligently to preserve this historic landmark.

Guide to San Juan Bautista Church, Tabaco

Overview
History
What to See
What to Do
Tips for Visitors
How to Get There
Location Map

Facade and Bell Tower of San Juan Bautista Church, Tabaco City, AlbayIJVelas, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

History

The church’s history is deeply rooted in the missionary efforts that began in 1587, led by the Franciscan Fathers. A wooden structure dedicated to St. John the Baptist, the city’s patron saint, marked the beginning of the Christian faith in the area in 1616. Over the centuries, the church has borne witness to the vicissitudes of nature and human conflict, including a super typhoon, a devastating earthquake, and the catastrophic eruption of Mayon Volcano in 1814, each event reshaping the community and its place of worship.

The construction of the current church under Fr. Fermin Llorente, an engineer and soldier turned priest, was a turning point. Designed to withstand the harsh elements and potential invasions, the church also features an unusual interior layout, with compartments that intrigue visitors and historians alike. The church’s distinctiveness is further highlighted by its bell tower, originally a watchtower, which now bears rocaille elements predating the church itself. Over time, Tabaco evolved from a visita under the administration of Camalig to an independent town with its own parish, underscoring the community’s growth and the church’s central role in it.

In the mid-1600s, under the Franciscan Province of St. Gregory, Tabaco became a regular parish, transitioning to secular clergy administration by 1664. The relentless threat of pirate raids prompted the community to relocate several times, seeking safety and stability. Yet, the spirit of Tabaco’s people remained unbroken, culminating in the construction of the present-day church that stands as a testament to their faith and tenacity.

San Juan Bautista Church, Tabaco City, Albay, 1966 | Photo by OFM Archives

What to See

Volcanic Stone Construction & Mason’s Marks: The church’s unique façade and structure, built from the area’s dark volcanic stones, feature rare mason’s marks—a testament to the craftsmanship and mystical lore of its construction.
Stately Bell Tower: The separate bell tower, adorned with decorative Rococo elements and serving historically as a defense lookout, is an architectural gem with deep historical significance.
Interior Features: Although renovations have altered much of the original interior, the effort to restore its frescoes and the distinct altar made of hardwood continues, inviting admiration.
Stained Glass Windows: Crafted by Italian artist Cesare Alberoni in the 1930s, these windows add a vibrant spectrum of color and light to the church’s interior.
Exterior Architecture: The facade combines Baroque and Gothic styles, with carvings and sculptures dedicated to St. John the Baptist, showcasing diverse cultural influences.
Unusual Floor Plan: Intrigue surrounds the church’s interior layout, with compartments of unknown purpose inviting curiosity and scholarly interest.

What to Do

Attend a Mass: Experience the spiritual ambiance and join the local community in worship by attending a mass at the church. It’s a profound way to connect with the church’s primary role as a place of religious gathering.
Explore the Architectural Elements: Investigate the unique mason’s marks, study the rococo bell tower, and appreciate the melding of various architectural influences.
Participate in the Feast Day: Immerse yourself in the cultural and religious fervor during the feast day of St. John the Baptist, celebrated on the 24th of June, enjoying the processions, performances, and communal festivities.
Investigate the Interior: Delve into the mystery of the unusual floor plan and admire the artistic details of the frescoes, altar, and stained glass, reflecting on the narratives they embody.

Tips for Visitors

Cultural Sensitivity: Dress modestly and respect the sanctity of the church, especially during masses and religious ceremonies.
Photography Guidelines: Exercise discretion when taking photos, particularly avoiding flash inside to preserve the art and ambiance.
Support Conservation: Engage with and support the church’s preservation efforts to ensure that this cultural treasure continues to inspire and serve future generations.

How to Get There

Public Transport

Public transport provides an authentic and economical way to travel, with options now including the comfort of air-conditioned “modern jeepneys.”

Jeepneys: Regular and modern jeepneys connect Legazpi and Tabaco City. The newer, air-conditioned “modern jeepneys” from Hyundai offer a comfortable ride on the Tabaco-Legazpi route. Look for jeepneys marked with “Tabaco” at major stops in Legazpi for a direct route to the city.
Buses: Buses frequently run from Legazpi to Tabaco, offering a slightly faster and more comfortable travel option. Check the terminal for bus schedules and inform the conductor that your stop is San Juan Bautista Church in Tabaco City.

Driving

For those who prefer the flexibility and independence of personal travel:

Navigation Apps: Use navigation apps such as Waze or Google Maps for the most efficient route to San Juan Bautista Church. Enter “San Juan Bautista Church, Tabaco City” as your destination for accurate directions.
Scenic Route: The drive offers stunning vistas of Mayon Volcano and the lush Albay countryside. Ensure your vehicle is ready for the journey, and consider pausing along the way to capture the breathtaking scenery.

Other Options

If you’re looking for convenience or don’t have access to a personal vehicle, these alternatives are available:

Ride-Hailing Apps: While more expensive, ride-hailing services like Grab can provide a direct and hassle-free way to reach the church from Legazpi.
Joining Tours: Participating in a tour organized by local operators can be informative and convenient, often including visits to San Juan Bautista among other attractions.
Car or Motorcycle Rentals: Renting a vehicle in Legazpi offers the freedom to explore at your own pace. Rental agencies can provide valuable travel tips and directions to Tabaco City.

With the addition of modern, air-conditioned jeepneys on the Tabaco-Legazpi route, visiting San Juan Bautista Church has never been more comfortable, allowing you to enjoy the cultural and natural splendors of Albay in convenience and style.

Interiors of the San Juan Bautista Church, Tabaco before it was damaged by typhoon in 2020